The Kingdom - County Kerry - welcome to B's home -

County Kerry

Its hard to believe that a little girl from County Kerry has kept her roots so strong, so reflective of that culture she was born into. Although she has lived for many years over in the pave lanes of England and under the hot sun of Southern Australia, her complexion seems to be no different from the day she left her native Kerry, Ireland, to travel the land before her. 

It was with pure joy and delight that I got to travel to Brigid homeland, to see a piece of her, to discover that Kerry character that at times I can see although not understand. To walk in the footsteps that she walked when younger, hear the stories with new life, meet the people with a heart of gratitude. 

County Kerry is a mystical, rugged and scenic Irish County that has captivated seeking tourists for hundreds of years, making the Ring of Kerry one of the most famous attractions in all of Ireland. There is positives and negatives to this I see….. 

Brigid often tells the story of at the time of the famine that hit Ireland, her father was offered a new piece of land in country, up north from where they lived. After much reflection, discerning by her father and mother, the pure reality of leaving the Skillig rock and ocean that greeted them each moment they looked out, was too great. Been there personally, I can see there is more to the story than the rock. Im sure they felt apart of them, apart of their ancestors, their tight knit community, their God, was reflected everywhere they looked. Heaven on Earth. 

I have learnt that county Kerry is known as The Kingdom to the people of Kerry, the county is the closet one will get to experience of ancient, mythical, Celtic kingdom. Misty mountains, glacial lakes, rugged peninsulas, magical rainbows, secluded hamlets and windswept beaches. Not to mention the misty fog that has a life of its own; like a protective coat watching over its people, allowing insight only to some, protecting all those who walked before, living now and the passer by. 

The locals express the great increase in popularity after film production placed Skellig Michael into the Star Wars. Only a small few second exposure so Im lead to believe, yet what a major impact it has had on the hidden gem. This has its own implications with thousands flocking to see the rock and only few getting to land, walk on the rock. 

The town settlement of Cahersiveen is small, one street which has changed a lot over the years, so I am told. The community is situated on the world famous ‘Ring of Kerry’ bring tourism to the settlement for a few months a year. At other times the town is still. It lies at the foot of Beentee Mountain on the River Fertha, overlooking Valentia Harbour. The town takes its name from that of a lady who was known as Saidhbhin or Little Sive. Its people depend on agriculture, fishing and today, tourism. 

We walked the main road, taking all of five minutes yet two things I will share. 

There is one place that use to be a draper shop - store that sold different things. When Brigid and her mother came into the settlement after a long journey over the hills, her mum would leave her there with the shop keeper and their parents. She was given drink, cookies and got to play. Joyful memories of been spoilt while her mother went around the village to get all her shopping done. 

Also we visited this cute little coffee shop for a much needed cuppa. It was here that the Kerry accent was captivating. The lady in the cafe spoke with kindness while her accent sounded like a English plum like sound hit with the Cork musical tone and mixed together. It was do entertaining, I could have sat for hours listening. Brigid’s accent although a hint of Irish comes through is sadly not at all like her home people, nor can I envision her with that accent. 

Just down from this shop is the church ‘Daniel O’Connell Memorial Church of the Holy Cross. The only church in Ireland dedicated to a layman. O’Connell was born at Carhan, which is just outside of Cathersiveen. He was known as ‘the Liberator” as he successfully achieved Catholic Emancipation, securing for Irish Catholics the right to sit in the British Parliament. Thus releasing them from various other legal and political restrictions. O’Connell believed in equality not just for the Irish people but also rejected slavery and anti-Semitism. Even though O’Connell is well before Brigid, with the church not been constructed until 19th century, it is still evident of the importance this example has on the people, on their culture and foundation. The church is not only a sacred pace for the community, it is a unique symbol of living memorial to religious freedom through the life and endeavours of one layman. To have this example before you at a young age will only offer empowerment and importance of laity. 

Back to B place though…. Brigid is from a small settlement call ‘The Glen’, not been a local one would be more aware of the area name of Cahersiveen - ‘Cathair Saidhbhin’ It is here that see where Brigid deep connection to water, to mother earth, to the land she is from comes.

Her family home is located on the top of a hill. We drove over the main hill, down into the valley right next to the coast line then up a hill, all of which along the way the forever shape of the Skelligs changed. The Glen stretches out in a complex patchwork of lush green grass, tress and hedgerows, all draped over undulating hills and valleys. Small farmhouses dot the valley, where splashes of yellow gorse seem to set the fields ablaze. Overhead, the ‘mountain' ranges surrounding the Glen show a myriad of subtle, deeper hues. This bit of the free outdoors of Ireland is a uniquely untouched place. 

View from around corner of B family home

Been travelling in a car for a long journey, we arrived to Brigid home stepping into the air, breathing in pure sea ocean. A feeling of relaxation as sense of been home, been on familiar land that hold so many memories for Brigid. Hopping along in the sunshine, the only sound was the crunching of the stony earth underfoot. Fluffy clouds above and green field stretching below, I felt a deep surge of connection to a place that is so familiar while completely new all at the same time.
I’m deeply sorry I never took any photos from Brigid home, I will check to see if she did. It is ingrain in my memory, with visions of Brigid racing down the hills in search for the milking shed, or running through the fields after her brother who would go finishing at the cliff face. The fields are divided with the stones her father dug from the earth to build refugee for their stock. 

We spent a bit of time in Brigid family home with her relatives. She was invited to take her hiking boots that she had left there…. just wanted to put that out for the whole world B!!! …. 

Im sure the family home has changed and not as it once was, however under its roof the memories it holds, the pure love and life it has sheltered still remains in spirit. I will not write about her family, as that is her story to tell. All I can say is that even with their limited contact and long distant communication they embrace B with love and open arms. It was a beautiful sight to witness and be apart of. 

Ballinskellig Castle just off the coastal beach

We continue to travel along the way until we reached a small inlay called Ballinskelligs. We went down to the beach where we bumped into one of Brigid relatives, arranging a cuppa for the following day, we continue to look at the ocean crystal clear that was slowly wrap over on itself, dancing in the afternoon sun with an invitation of play on the golden sand. 

Abbey, where B parents rest 

We journey to the Ballinskellig Priory that is a 12th century Abbey. The location of the Augustinian Priory is simply stunning. You can see why the monks, who had abandoned the isolated monastery on Skellig Michael, decided to build their new monastery here on the shores of the bay. We walked into the area, through the crumblings stones, walking into the church out looking the bay. As we journey around the site, Brigid lead to her parents grave for us to greet and pay respects. They rest in heaven, heaven on earth and reunion with our Creator. Even with the crumbling walls, their gravestone indicates the view point of looking out across the bay. Greeting each day the morning sun, watching over their beloved that are still here, while resting with the sunset to a spiritual place. It was so humbling to be invited to journey with B here. 

Ballinskellig Beach

After this we went to see Brigid local parish. Their community had the choose of three parishes, the one in the town settlement, Daniel O'Connell Memorial Church, which was a journey so not too often joined there for Mass only for occasions. The local two parish were on either side of the family home. This parish had a rather strange glass window behind the altar. Brigid does not remember it, however I express that if I was a child then I would block it, as most likely I would be crying in fear looking at it. Unsure of its meaning, even still a little strange having so many eyes looking at you!! 

The Glen

The Glen

The other parish church, The Glen, was built by a local family, two sisters in memory of their family and gifted to the community. This parish has a nice feel, gentleness and sense of life in it. The Murphy name within the walls, with special mention, remembrance, a very local village community. 

(B has photo of other church in Dun Geagan with the strange glass window. I will put up tonight) 

To get to Brigid home place, is a journey, in many forms that took us a few days. It was a very blessed time, hearing of the stories, the memories that come alive when present. I will have to write another few blogs on the journey inward and outward of Cahersiveen. Our time went fast, many people visited, stories told, cuppa’s shared and Masses said. 

For me, it gave me insight, awareness, connection on a deeper level to what formed Brigid into the person she is today. I’m highly aware of her limited years here, however in those essential years her connection to the place is thread through her. A rare find is a Murphy today, however when you find one what a gem to hold! 

Heading out of Kerry - South Kerry. 

P.S So many more photos of Kerry, however I have had to limit them. One day I will get to share all with everyone... for now this is a taste of 'The Kingdom' - Thank you for welcoming us to your homeland B.